Which skincare for perioral dermatitis comes up very regularly in the messages I receive regarding this skin disease. In order to best answer your questions, I combined all my advice in an blogpost and a Youtube video (in french, sorry !).
Skincare for perioral dermatitis
As I explain in my posts, perioral dermatitis is an acute inflammation of the face – especially around the eyes and mouth. This results in a red, swollen face subject to small spots (grainy appearance) which can turn into pustules if a wrong diagnosis is made and we do not act accordingly.
In case of perioral dermatitis, we have two periods : the crisis period and the healthy period – which therefore require completely different care.
Crisis period
When inflammation is declared, the only solution remains cosmetic detox. That is to say, it is necessary to stop all skincare and creams for your skin and its microbiota to restore.
It is the most difficult period to live in this situation. The skin suffers, is inflamed, peels, tears, etc. As this is a period of cosmetic diet, it is therefore “forbidden” to use moisturizers (which nourish the inflammation).
Nevertheless, it is possible to put in place a few well-being gestures in order to relieve this moment and maintain your skin, especially if you live in urbanized areas.
In the morning, you can :
- refresh your face with thermal water : spray, lightly massage and wipe clean by tapping with a tissue or a towel that you reserve for your face. My favorites : the one from Avène and the one from Uriage.
- protect yourself from the sun : wearing an SPF is valid for the whole year. The one I recommend is the Anthélios spray from La Roche Posay. It is essential that the SPF you choose is a spray and not a cream that will nourish the inflammation.
- apply make-up : only with powder formula products. Dermatitis is a sterile disease so it will not contaminate your makeup products. Here are some compact powders that I really like : Naked Skin powder foundation from Urban Decay, Free radiance foundation from Nude by Nature. You also have the mosaic powders from Avène. The powder helps reduce redness and regain some self-confidence during this difficult period. You can also use a mascara to define your look. For the lips, if you have a lot of pimples around your mouth, it is better to abstain.
In the evening, you can :
- cleanse your skin with cleansing milk : what I do is I apply the milk directly to my face and I use circular movements to remove makeup as much as possible. I rinse with a washable cotton pad. I have been able to test several since I have this disease.
- hydrate with thermal water : as in the morning, spray, massage and gently wipe.
In healthy times
The healthy period is the period that we want to preserve as much as possible after our episode of crisis. It is therefore necessary to keep in mind the reflexes that we acquired previously. It is important to keep in mind that dermatitis is triggered with the use of too many cosmetics so have a light grip on the amounts.
Also, regarding to scrubs and masks, skin that tends to have dermatitis should not be too exfoliated. I usually do it once every two weeks (and again, it depends on the periods) but after my crisis period, I did it once a month or so. I do the same for the masks.
In the morning, you can :
- wake up your skin with floral/infused water : spray, massage lightly. My favorite: the Queen of Hungary Lotion by Centella.
- moisturize your face with a light cream : pay attention to the quantities! The one that I never tire of is Camellia Cream by o.Moi.
- protect yourself from the sun : wearing an SPF is valid for the whole year. The one I recommend is the Anthélios spray from La Roche Posay. It is essential that the SPF you choose is a spray and not a cream that will nourish the inflammation.
- apply make-up : once the crisis has passed and the skin has stabilized, you can completely apply make-up as usual. However, choose your cream foundations carefully to avoid any reactions. Personally, I use more and more powder to avoid re-igniting my skin.
In the evening, you can :
- cleanse your skin with cleansing milk : same as in a crisis.
- cleanse your skin with a cleansing gel : generally, when I make up, I do what is called a “double cleanse” : a cleansing with two stages (milk then the gel).
- use a micellar lotion for the last make-up residues : it is very important to rinse your micellar lotion with thermal water (step not to be missed !).
- soothe with floral water (preferably organic) : chamomile, corn-flower, make your choice for a soothing plant.
- hydrate (optional) : as I explain in the video, I avoid over-hydrating in the evening. If I feel the beginning of inflammation point the tip of his nose, I stop.
Skincare cosmetic brands for perioral dermatitis ?
Since I was diagnosed in 2016, I have increasingly turned to brands promoting the natural: some organic, others not. The important thing is to avoid brands with extended lists of ingredients, with petrochemical products and with alcohol (alcohol) as a second ingredient … Also always favor gel-cream, aqueous formulas and not too rich. Also, the use of vegetable oil is not recommended in the case of perioral dermatitis.
Some plants help soothe perioral dermatitis (outside of a crisis period), look for them in your cosmetics: camellia, chamomile, blueberry, rose, sage.
Cleansing milk tested :
- Exquisite Milky Fluid from Qiriness,
- Express Skincare Rosa Centifiolia Makeup Remover from Ren,
- Cleansing and Cleansing Milk from Dr Hauschka,
- Gentle Cleansing Milk from Hydraflore.
Cleaning gels tested :
- Gentle Purifying Cleanser from Ellaro,
- Rosa Skincare Rosa Centifolia Cleansing Gel,
- Organic Gentle Hibiscus Cleansing Gel from Hydraflore,
- Face Clearing Foam Gallinée,
- Vitamin E Gentle Face Wash The Body Shop,
- Divine Balm Qiriness.
Micellar Lotions tested (TO RINSE!) :
- Micellar Lotion from Avène,
- Detox Micellar Water Saève,
- Micellar Lotion from Embryolisse.
Floral or infused waters tested :
- Organic Camille floral water from Sanoflore,
- Centella Queen of Hungary Lotion,
- Toning Lotion by Dr Hauschka,
- Laboté Floral Water,
- Naobay Energizing Facial Mist.
Serums tested :
- Mineral 89 from Vichy,
- The Body Shop’s Drop of Youth.
Moistirizers tested:
- Camellia Cream from o.Moi,
- Hydraflore Rose Caresse tenderness cream
- Caress Qiriness Water Source,
- The Body Shop SPF 30 Vitamin E Hydraprotective Emulsion.
Other blogposts on perioral dermatitis :